The Rowan Tree, Harmony Row. - Not your average dingy hostel. 9/10

Sitting beside the calm flow of the River Fergus drinking a damn fine cup of coffee, it is clear that this cafe/bar slash restaurant and fancy hostel is a big hit in Ennis. ‘The Buena Vista Social Club’ is piped outside to the terrace full of lunchtime diners, reminding us how lucky we are to have a warm and dry day. Managing director Brian O’Neill tells me that he and his partner Marianne developed this idea after realizing that yes, there was a niche market in Ennis for both casual dining and no-fuss hostel accommodation that doesn’t break the bank. It is obvious that Brian loves it, he speaks with great enthusiasm about the Rowan Tree which is approaching its first birthday this August; of course this is good to hear, as oppose to the usual down and out whinging of late due to the dreaded ‘r’ word (rhymes with ‘session’). Tucked away from the hustle and bustle of the town, the property itself dates back to 1740 when it was originally a gentleman’s club; ‘they had tons of money, good taste and time to build it’ says Brian. So he and Marianne have hardly touched the original structure ‘we just enhanced what was there’. There is a range of options for foodies and wine connoisseurs: from light bites to evening dinners and an extensive wine list.

The interior has high ceilings, great light, and ambience. Very importantly they have suitably spaced tables allowing for conversation (this is not a cafeteria people!). One of my gripes with cafes/bistros these days is the extortionate price of scones: it’s a scone, not haute cuisine! In fact, scones are pretty ugly looking things, and I will welcome anyone to try and convince me otherwise. In the Rowan Tree, a yummy freshly baked scone is a measly €1.80, and so it should be! My favourite salad is their Bluebell honey and garlic goats cheese salad with roasted cherry tomatoes and rocket leaves drizzled with house dressing and basil pesto. It is only €6.95 and thankfully it isn’t drowned in dressing. A salad dressing should only coat the leaves of the salad, what is wrong with people who drown salads? :-( While the weather is fine, why not go for a glass of their Campo Nuevo Garnacha Rosado rosé with a crisp salad?

Their menus read ‘good food Mediterranean style’, but it has its own stamp: great locally-sourced ingredients, consistent presentation, friendly and knowledgeable staff who are on the ball and a unique location. I sometimes sense an air of pretension in nouveau-med-bistro joints, but this place is just plain chilled-out.



For menus/rates/bookings see:
www.rowantreehostel.ie
(Breakfast 10-12, Lunch 12-5pm and Dinner 5pm-10pm.)

Brian and Marianne also run the award-winning Kinlay House in Dublin.
www.kinlaydublin.ie